How to use vitamin C serum? Why using it at all?

What exactly does Vitamin C do for your skin?

Well, a lot…

Let me explain. Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is a crucial antioxidant that plays a huge role in various skin health aspects. Its benefits for the skin are rooted in its biochemical properties and mechanisms of action, which include skin brightening, collagen production enhancement, and free radical scavenging and more. Here's a closer look at the science behind how Vitamin C works in these areas:

Brightening and Reducing Pigmentation

How: Vitamin C inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, which is involved in the synthesis of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color. By inhibiting tyrosinase activity, Vitamin C reduces melanin production, which helps to lighten hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone.

A 2017 study published in the Dermatologic Surgery journal investigated the effect of a topical formulation of 20% Vitamin C on skin brightness and pigmentation. And over a 12-week period, participants experienced a significant reduction in melanin content and an improvement in skin brightness, which contributes to a more even skin tone and reduces dark spots.

Boosting Collagen Production

How: Vitamin C is essential for the biosynthesis of collagen, a protein that gives skin its firmness and elasticity. It acts as a cofactor for the enzymes prolyl hydroxylase and lysyl hydroxylase, which are necessary for stabilizing and cross-linking collagen molecules. This process not only aids in the production of collagen but also ensures the quality and stability of the collagen produced.

Research published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology in 2017 highlighted the role of Vitamin C in increasing collagen production in the skin. The study involved participants applying a Vitamin C serum daily for six months. Results showed an increase in collagen density and skin firmness, with a significant improvement observed in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Fighting Free Radicals

How: Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals, unstable molecules generated by UV radiation, pollution, and other environmental stressors, which can damage cells, leading to premature aging and skin diseases. Vitamin C donates electrons to free radicals, stabilizing them and preventing them from causing cellular damage.

A 2015 study in the Free Radical Biology and Medicine journal explored Vitamin C's antioxidative properties. The research indicated that topical application of Vitamin C significantly reduced oxidative stress in the skin caused by UV exposure. Participants showed a decrease in the number of sunburned cells and a reduction in DNA damage.

Enhancing Sun Protection

How: While not a sunscreen, Vitamin C enhances the efficacy of sunscreens. It combats free radical damage caused by exposure to UV light, thus complementing the physical and chemical UV filters in sunscreens. This synergistic effect helps to further reduce photodamage.

• Evidence: Research in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology demonstrated that the combination of Vitamin C with Vitamin E and sunscreen offers superior protection against photodamage than sunscreen alone.

L-Ascorbic Acid (LAA)

• Potency: Most potent form, effective for brightening and antioxidative protection. When it comes to Potency and Effectiveness (it is my preferred ingredient) L-Ascorbic Acid stands out, but its high potency might not suit sensitive skin.

• pH Requirement: Requires acidic pH (<3.5) for stability, which may irritate sensitive skin. Water soluble so can easily penetrate the skin.

• Best For: Those looking for maximum potency and don’t have sensitive skin.

• Note: while highly effective, its instability in water presents formulation challenges, leading to a loss of effectiveness within a couple of weeks.

Ascorbyl Palmitate

• Potency: Less potent than LAA but more stable and less irritating. It doesn’t penetrate the skin as well as LAA.

• Solubility: Fat-soluble, making it better for penetration in lipid layers of the skin.

• Best For: People with sensitive skin looking for antioxidant benefits without irritation.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP)

• Potency: Less potent than LAA; offers significant stability in higher pH levels.

• Special Features: Effective for acne-prone skin due to its antibacterial properties.

• Best For: Acne-prone skin types seeking to reduce breakouts and improve skin clarity.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)

• Potency: Similar to SAP in terms of potency; offers hydration benefits. It doesn’t penetrate the skin as well as LAA and it’s not as good at free radical attack.

• Solubility: Water-soluble, known for its stability and gentleness on the skin.

• Best For: Those with dry or sensitive skin needing hydration plus Vitamin C benefits.

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

• Potency: Offers a good balance between potency and stability; effectively converts back to ascorbic acid in the skin.

• Skin Penetration: Penetrates well due to its solubility in both water and lipid, reaching deeper layers of the skin.

• Best For: All skin types, especially those looking for deep penetration, brightening effects, and collagen production without irritation.

  

My preference: L-Ascorbic Acid at 20% (1 part to 4 parts) mixed with a serum to a ph of around 3-4 is the best. Assuming that your skin can tolerate it.

• Morning Routine: Best used in the morning to leverage its antioxidant properties against UV damage.

• Cleanse First: Apply on clean, dry skin for maximum absorption.

• Layering: Follow up with moisturizer and sunscreen. Vitamin C can enhance the protection offered by your sunscreen.

• Patch Test: Especially with L-Ascorbic Acid, to avoid irritation.

• Storage: Keep in a cool, dark place to maintain efficacy as Vitamin C is light and air-sensitive.

WHY SHOULD YOU NOW USE LEMON JUICE DIRECTLY ON SKIN?

Using lemon juice directly on the face is generally not recommended due to several reasons:

• High Acidity: Lemon juice has a low pH, around 2, which is much more acidic than the skin's natural pH level (around 4.7 to 5.75). This can disrupt the skin's barrier function, leading to irritation, dryness, and sensitivity.

• Photosensitivity: Lemons contain compounds that can make your skin more sensitive to sunlight, increasing the risk of sunburn and UV damage.

• Skin Irritation: The acidic nature of lemon juice can cause irritation, redness, and even chemical burns on sensitive skin.

• Potential for Allergic Reactions: Some people may have an allergic reaction to lemon juice, resulting in rashes, itching, or blistering.