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Vitamins in skincare vs. supplements: What Science Says
Why topical vitamins A, B3, C & E outshine supplements
M Hallam
February 19, 2024
I'm often asked about the best way to incorporate Vitamins A, B3, C, and E into skincare routines. In my experience (and science supports it), topical application often prevails over supplements.
However, it's essential to emphasize the importance of maintaining a healthy lifestyle, which plays a significant role in achieving optimal skin health.
VIT A, B3, C, D AND E - what’s more effective for our skin: oral or topical application?
VITAMIN A
ROLE | Retinoids are effective in reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and age spots. They promote cell turnover and stimulate collagen production, resulting in smoother, firmer skin. |
VERDICT | Daily topical application can be up to 4 times more effective than standard oral supplements. Vit A, as fat-soluble can accumulate in your fat tissue if taken in high doses, therefore its intake should be monitored by a doctor (esp when you’re pregnant). |
VITAMIN B3
ROLE | Niacinamide is known for its ability to improve skin texture, minimize pores, and reduce redness and inflammation. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier function and regulate oil production. |
VERDICT | Studies show that B3 is more effective when applied topically esp to treat redness, acne, dehydration. Also, as it’s water-soluble if its intake is abused, your body will excrete it. |
VITAMINS B7 AND B5
ROLE | Play important roles in maintaining skin health when taken orally. They support skin barrier function, hydration, and overall skin vitality. |
VERDICT | When B7 and B5 are absorbed systemically they contribute to cellular metabolism and repair processes throughout the body, a mechanism not as effectively achieved through topical application due to limited absorption and localized effects. |
VITAMIN C
ROLE | Known for its antioxidant properties, vitamin C helps to brighten the skin, fade hyperpigmentation, and protect against free radical damage caused by UV exposure. It’s critical for collagen production and skin repair. |
VERDICT | It's a nuanced choice. Scientific research indicates that oral vitamin C in high doses is effective in protecting against free radical damage and aiding skin cell repair. However, for targeted treatment of specific areas like the face or hands, topical application may be preferred, as it can yield visible results within 2-4 weeks. I should note that L-ascorbic acid powder will oxidise fast once combined with water, therefore I only mix it with my serum once I decide to start my vitamin C treatment, which will last 10-14 days. |
VITAMIN D
ROLE | Plays a critical role in maintaining skin health by regulating cell growth, protecting against UV damage, supporting the skin barrier, reducing inflammation, and promoting wound healing. |
VERDICT | Whilst vitamin D is primarily synthesized by the body through exposure to sunlight, most people obtain their vitamin D through oral supplementation or dietary sources. While topical vitamin D creams may offer localized benefits for certain skin conditions, such as psoriasis or eczema, they are not as effective as oral supplementation for increasing overall vitamin D levels in the body, which is distributed to cells via bloodstream. Therefore, oral vitamin D supplementation remains the preferred method for addressing vitamin D deficiency and maintaining optimal vitamin D status. |
VITAMIN E
ROLE | Serves as a potent antioxidant for the skin, protecting against oxidative stress and UV damage, aiding in skin repair, and enhancing moisture retention. |
VERDICT | Topical application of vitamin E offers targeted and efficient delivery of the vitamin to the skin, resulting in improved skin health, hydration, and protection against environmental damage. Since vitamin E is fat-soluble, it can accumulate in the body if taken in high doses over an extended period – consult your doctor before starting a treatment. |
When choosing skincare products containing vitamins, it's important to consider the concentration, formulation, and compatibility with your skin type.
WHY TOPICAL APPLICATION OF VIT A, B3, C AND E IS MORE EFFECTIVE OVER ORAL?
Direct Application: When applied topically, vitamins A, B3, C & E are directly delivered to the skin, allowing it to exert its benefits locally. This direct application ensures these vitamins can target specific areas of concern.
Higher Concentration: Skincare products containing vitamins A, B3, C & E often have higher concentrations of the vitamin than oral supplements. This higher concentration allows for more potent effects on the skin, promoting hydration, reducing inflammation, and protecting against free radical damage.
Enhanced Absorption: vitamins A, B3, C & E are better absorbed through the skin compared to when it's taken orally. The skin's outer layer, the stratum corneum, acts as a barrier that prevents excessive absorption of substances, helping to regulate the amount of vitamins absorbed and reducing the risk of toxicity.
Topical Formulations: Skincare products containing vitamins A, B3, C & E are formulated with other beneficial ingredients, such as moisturizers, antioxidants, and anti-inflammatory agents, which can enhance its efficacy and provide synergistic effects for the skin.
Targeted Treatment: Topical application allows for targeted treatment of specific skin concerns, allowing vitamins to address issues like sun damage, premature aging, and skin irritation effectively.